For the past few years I have been thinking that it would be nice to have a small crag to get into the swing of standing on crampons without going for a big hike. The south-east toe of Mount Field seems to provide just such a spot. Hiking uphill for 15-20 minutes from the picnic spot brings one to a very chossy chunk of rock replete with chimneys and cracks. It seems safe from avalanches, and when Twisted’s mixed crag gets deservedly popular it can be a good alternative. There are plenty of unclimbed cracks to venture up as well.
We have established three lines. Simon Richardson and i climbed a very rambly face we called Chasing the Ephemeral (M2), named after Simon’s excellent guide to Scottish winter climbing (in red on the photo.)
Blue is walkoff/approach. Rappel SSS.
First Pitch of Chasing the Ephemeral
Then Chris Brazeau and I climbed one of the main corner systems on the buttress, finding very chossy rock in the corner and better but run out rock on the arete to the right. In three pitches we climbed Scottish Scree Slide (M4). Knowledge of piton placement and ability to find and place rock gear is key for this one. It is the obvious corner in yellow on the photo.
Chris coming up to the belay at the top of pitch one.
A few people have asked me about SSS. I would recommend being very comfortable with finding and placing good rock gear with gloves on before going. I hear a few people have repeated it, which is excellent as it can only get better as more choss is trundled off it.
Looking down pitch one and two
Looking up Pitch 3 Scottish Scree Slide
Just a few days ago, Christian Schlumpf decided to use the tools for the first time in two years while avoiding pulling down on anything in the extremely chossy Pinball Chimney (M4). Ropes were chopped and we checked out another of the corners before retreating soaking wet and scared from a lack of pro, but we had again gotten some good practice standing on our crampons.
Looking up Pinball Chimney (orange in the overall photo)
Christian gingerly loading all four points on Pinball Chimney.
Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you want any more info.
