Easily rap Superdark without commiting to walking off (or topping out the crux!)
After warming up at the Field Choss Crag, Nik and I decided to undertake the slog into Protection Valley. Carrying a Yosemite rack as well as screws made us opt for the shortest approach available, to Superdark (M5, 195m). Three hours later, after a bit of slippery footing and some minor tree bashing. we were faced with pitch after pitch of chimneying. The first pitch starts off promisingly with some thin unprotected edging to get off the ground. Soon we realized the theme of the day; squeeze past a bulge hanging out from the gully/corner, hike up easy ground to a cave. On pitch 4 we found a very awkward helmet sized squeeze. The options on the face to the right looked like smooth feet and no protection. Numerous ups and downs and hesitations, then committing to a few thin moves finally got me past the roof. Apparently this was made a little less awkward on the FA with a smear of climbable ice on this pitch. Good to know the route is climbable even when it isn’t in mixed condition.
The forecast for very high winds, a rush of cold air, and significant snow came true by the top of pitch 7. Walking off the route didn’t seem smart, so we rapped without incident, from comfortable stances (save the top station, hanging). I wasn’t sure that we could make it up the route (we didn’t we skipped the last 10 meters, which Kris Irwin informed me is the crux due to thin moves and a lack of gear, way to skip the crux!). With this rap route established it gives a good alternative to walking off if the snow conditions don’t appeal.
Overall a good experience, just don’t wear your best goretex jacket (chimneying on every pitch).
A good showing by Nik on his second day of drytooling ever.
Nik mastering the squeeze technique.
Rap 1: 10 meters short of topout on pitch 7: Two nuts equalized at the top of the steeper ground
Rap 2: From chockstone in massive chimney at top of pitch 5
Rap 3: On a nice ledge slightly climbers right of plumbline from chockstone station. About 7 meters climbers right of route/corner.
Rap 4: About 10 meters from the ground, 3 meters to the right of the route/corner. A better alternative would be to stop on one of the higher ledges and rap to the ground.
